How Bandhani Tie-and-Dye is Made: India's Ancient Art of Resist Dyeing
Bandhani is one of India's oldest and most vibrant textile traditions — a tie-and-dye craft that transforms plain fabric into a riot of colour through nothing more than nimble fingers, thread, and dye. Practiced for over 5,000 years, Bandhani originates from the regions of Gujarat and Rajasthan, and its 
name comes from the Sanskrit word bandha, meaning "to tie".
The Origins of Bandhani
Evidence of Bandhani dates back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, making it one of the world's oldest known textile techniques. It flourished under royal patronage in Gujarat and Rajasthan, where it became an integral part of bridal trousseaus and festive wear. Cities like Jamnagar, Bhuj, and Jodhpur remain the heartland of Bandhani craft today.
How Bandhani is Made — Step by Step
The process is entirely handcrafted and requires extraordinary skill and patience:
- Marking the pattern: The fabric — usually fine silk, georgette, or cotton — is folded and a pattern is stamped onto it using a wooden block dipped in fugitive dye.
- Tying: Artisans (often women working from home) use their fingernails and thread to pinch tiny portions of fabric at each marked dot and tie them tightly with thread. A single saree can have thousands — sometimes over 100,000 — individual ties.
- Dyeing: The tied fabric is submerged in dye. The tied portions resist the dye, creating the characteristic dotted pattern. Multiple rounds of tying and dyeing create multi-coloured designs.
- Untying: Once dried, the threads are carefully removed to reveal the pattern — a moment of magic where the design emerges for the first time.
Recognising Authentic Bandhani
- The dots have a slightly raised, puckered texture from the tying.
- The pattern is visible on both sides of the fabric.
- No two pieces are identical — slight variations are a mark of handcraft.
- The colours are vibrant and deeply saturated, especially on silk.
Traditional Bandhani Patterns
- Shikari (hunting scenes) — traditionally gifted at weddings.
- Leheriya (wave patterns) — associated with the monsoon season in Rajasthan.
- Ekdali (single dot) — the simplest and most classic form.
- Trikunti (triangular clusters) — a more complex, festive pattern.
How to Care for Bandhani Fabric
- Hand wash separately in cold water — colours may bleed on first wash.
- Use a gentle, colour-safe detergent.
- Do not wring; gently squeeze out water and dry flat in shade.
- Iron on low heat on the reverse side to preserve the texture of the ties.
- Store away from direct sunlight to prevent colour fading.
Explore Our Bandhani Collection
At The Indian Looms, our Bandhani collection brings together pieces crafted by skilled artisans from Gujarat and Rajasthan — each one tied by hand, dyed with care, and carrying the spirit of a tradition thousands of years old.